Please remember that our photo adoption guidelines specify to never crop or rotate (or shift) an image. Not even a little bit. Images that have been cropped or rotated cannot be accepted. If you'd like us to consider making an exception, drop us a line before getting started.
Please be sure to perform all basic healing/patching/cloning i!!!mprovements on pre-color treated layers, never AFTER adjusting tone or color. If not kept separate, it will be impossible to aptly modify color and tone, if needed. The tutorial below covers basic color correction, including layering. (If unfamiliar with "selective color" adjustments, you're going to love this youtube video.)
#3 NEVER CONVERT TO GRAYSCALE
Beginners may not realize how much helpful detail exists in black and white images that have been scanned in RGB mode. Channels are our friends! For this reason we ask that you correct your image in RGB without converting to grayscale. (Cutting and pasting an RGB image into a grayscale doc, then repasting the former back into an RGB document is the same as converting to grayscale. Channel content becomes lost forever.) Use a black & white adjustment layer within your RGB file, instead.
The animated gif below shows how different black & white adjustment layers effect the same photo. If you are new to B&W adjustment layers, download this introductory layered psd, turning each B&W layer on and off, separately, to explore the differences. You can even drag the entire folder named "B&W - Adjustment Layer Types" in the above document into a new psd. Choosing the right channel for your photo can shave hours off of the restoration process by disguising stains or enhancing enhancing areas or tonal values that you'd like to highlight.
#4 AVOID OVER-SATURATION OF DARKS + OVER-BRIGHTENING OF LIGHTS
Please be very careful not to over-saturate blacks, nor blow out light areas. When you do so we lose all of an image's magnificent mid-tone values, that distinguish hair, folds in clothing and so on. Auto levels and auto curves will rarely aptly color correct a given image. Play with a combination of curves/ exposure/ selective color and so on, and mask individual areas if need be. This comment applies to black & white images in particular. (And hundreds of wedding tuxedos!)
No artificial color tinting please! Especially when sprucing modern photos. Exception being if you've received a studio-tinted, vintage image like this one, in need of a refresh. Hue saturating or transparently painting the entire surface of a faded portrait is not color correcting. It's Crayloa crayoning! Aim for naturalness at all times.
This Curious George posse was DECLINED due to artificial tinting.
#6 SILHOUETTED FIGURES PAIRED WITH SOLID FILL BACKGROUNDS
Many volunteers have been attempting to speed up restorations by getting rid of monochromatic areas of texture. How so? By creating cookie cutter cropped silhouettes set upon solid, paintbucket color-filled backgrounds. This is cheating (!!!) and almost always looks collaged and unnatural. Especially when hair strands and ears get lopped. Consider repairing a portion of the original background that appears to be damaged, then replicate this area to 'fill' remaining damaged areas. (Healing damaged areas may time-consuming, but will be well worth the effort.)
This close-up also features taboo figure silhouetting from a DECLINED submission. Also note the completely different tower + tonal variances.
We've noticed many of you are incredibly skilled at painting. Unfortunately we cannot accept restorations that look heavily 'painted', as these begin to feel more like illustrations. Harsh but true fact: RIPS that have been or 'feel' smudged/blurred/painted WILL be rejected. Pixel sampling (cloning/stamping/spot healing/patching) is tedious but necessary when photos display lots of surface grime. Do not 'paint' or 'draw' in full or partial elements unless you possess photo-realism skills and have received permission to do so.
Don't try this at home! We're looking for restored photos with accurate likenesses, not illustrations — no mater how skilled!
LIVE YouTube-streamed CARE for Sandy Google+ Community tutorial led by forum moderator Boris Polonsky
Please refrain from using "Dust & Scratches", "Reduce Noise", "Despeckle" and Frequency Separation to "disguise" surface debris unless you are a trained professional who knows how to use the former in isolated, masked moderation. When noise reducing filters are applied over an entire image 'as is', they tend to do little more than blur, and also strip &/or bleed color and fine details in areas like lips, teeth, eyes, fingernails, clothing patterns and jewelry. Avoid intentional blurring, in general, as well. Especially in focal areas, e.g. faces. It is important to keep all photos as crisp as possible, and to retain original texture, be this due to old-school ISO 800 or printing paper. Doing so will keep quality stellar, plus ensure that photos that belong to a series can be altered by staff, if necessary, to match.
We're also looking for consistency. For instance if sky, a wall or a vast expanse of fabric is textured in one area per its original, but has been smoothed out/blurred/painted over elsewhere, we're going to notice and ask for amendments.
Close-ups of original, RIPv1 (DECLINED), RIPv1 (DECLINED), RIPv1 (DECLINED), RIPv4 (ACCEPTED)
A RIP DECLINED due to posterization caused by filtered noise reduction/blurring.
Most of our images have been scanned at 600dpi, both to give retouchers enough detail to work with and so that families will be able to print out photos at 200% for enlarged framing. So when repairing your photo - ZOOM IN. To at least 200%. If you see lint/specks/dirt/dust/scratches/etc, so will we. Please remove any visible lint/dust/dirt/specks, so that we won't have to ask that you do so. Take time removing visible surface debris. 'Your' family is worth the effort!
And remember that while noise reduction —when used in careful, isolated masked moderation—can be a starting point, it ain't an end-all. Akin to a painting's underpainting. Manual refinements will probably be necessary, too.
Original, degrained (DECLINED), somewhat refined (DECLINED), further refined (ACCEPTED)
Watch the way in which you treat edges. Are the original edges soft? Use a soft stamp. Are they sharp? Mimic the original's sharp edges. Consistency is key. Please avoid leaving tell-tale trails, with hodge-podge object edge treatments. (Example: We're seeing lots of "drawn" architectural elements with ultra sharp edges which look odd when paired with the softness of a given image's originals lineations.)
Please refrain from making arbitrary cosmetic changes. For all you know that foot you've been tempted to remove may be the last remaining 'image' of a loved one. That pot you're dying to clone away may have been where dad hid mom's wedding ring. That bag or bush or beer can may have significance we're not aware of. It's our job to restore these photos, albeit not play 'God'. The former includes the removal of details you might feel are too difficult to repair. If you feel VERY strongly about removing a detail, please ask for permission. We're willing to make exceptions.
Conversely, please do not embellish photos with items you feel are 'cool' or 'better than the original'. No need to add or alter the original state of a given photo area, unless using a creative commons image to repair a completely demolished area.
Examples? We've received restorations in which eyes have been enlarged or flipped. Volunteers also love to remove natural shadows/contours that help maintain an image's 3D quality, glorious freckles, signature moles, happy time-worn wrinkles and 'extra' weight. Hollywood teeth whitening and artifical eye enhancing are also de rigeur. We're not creating magazine covers with idealized interpretations of beauty. Aim for naturalness at all times.
Most importantly, be very careful to ensure that your portrait looks like 'that' person, not just any person. Is the jawline the same? Has the nose changed its shape? Are the eyes accurate?
An example of taking a restoration too far. The volunteer slimmed the teen's face, removed every last blemish and enlarged the eyes and lips.
We don't think we even need to show this image's original to demonstrate why this RIP was DECLINED. Campbell's soup can and all.
You know what we're talking about. Photoshop's Artistic, Brush Strokes, Sketch, Stylize and Texture filter gallery offerings. e.g. Stained Glass, Texturizer, Craquelure, Bas Relief, Reticulation and so on. They look clinical and computer generated!
Have you adopted a Beginner photo? None of our beginner photos call for added grain. Have you adopted an Intermediate or Advanced photo? SOME extemely damaged photos can actually benefit from a little added grain, if used with subtlety and moderation. In particular if a given image has inconsistent surface texture (slick in some areas, stippled in others), or if intense cleaning has led to unavoidable smudginess. However please err on the side of caution and ask about adding grain to your particular photo before preceding -OR- include a second RIP (v2) to which no grain has been added. And always place grain on a separate layer above all edits, that can be turned off if necessary.
*Grain should never be added to attempt to disguise grime you're hoping to avoid cleaning, that could otherwise be successfully removed via healing, cloning or patching.
Let's face it. Some of these photos were not high-quality to begin with, which means many are not as crisp as we'd like them to be. But please refrain from over-zealously applying sharpening filters. Many sharpening "tricks" permanently alter the texture of a photo, and produce unnatural grain.
If you'd like to send us a sharpened variation, definitely feel free to do so. But please be sure to send a variation that does not contain any sharpening, as well. Which means save potential sharpening tricks for the very end of the restoration process on separate layer(s), to be safe.
25% of images are currently being returned with the wrong naming convention. When you neglect to add personalized naming extensions, we run the risk of having an original file overridden by your restoration. Review our naming/extension conventions here under STEP #6.
Advanced volunteers need to be high-end professional retouchers/restorers (e.g. with advertising, film or beauty clients) -OR- have provided truly advanced samples which demonstrate that a given volunteer has the ability to realistically reconstruct faces, hands, skin and missing areas in general without significant coaching from our staff. (Those who operate homespun restoration businesses will not likely qualify.) Therefore please refrain from requesting ADOPT ME! Advanced images unless you meet these requirements. Here are a few genuinely advanced before/afters to inspire:
Girl's portrait (moldy mess)
Honeymoon at waterfall (scratched mess)
Group portrait at printing plant (emulsion mess)
Flower girl (color bleeding mess)
First communion beauty (emulsion mess)
Toddler in highchair (emulsion mess)
Newborn baby (emulsion mess)
Outdoor wedding scene (emulsion mess)
Bride & bridesmaids (emulsion mess)
And here is a close-up from an Advanced image that was adopted by two decidedly non-Advanced volunteers, who were not able to recognize their limitations. Please acknowledge your own strengths and weaknesses, so as to best use your time and ours!